Pati Jinich is best known for her award-winning PBS show “Pati’s Mexican Table” and her cookbooks, where she shares recipes from the Mexican kitchen. Some of the earliest kitchens Pati entered as a child in Mexico were a unique blend of Ashkenazi flavors and local flare.
There was gefilte fish simmered in a piquant tomato sauce with pepperoncini peppers from her Polish grandmother Esther Morgenstern’s kitchen. Lali, as Pati called her other grandmother, came to Mexico as a World War II refugee from Austria. Like Esther, her new homeland inspired her cooking in dishes like mushroom and jalapeño matzo ball soup. She also enjoyed preparing elegant French meals.
Lali was a gifted cook and that passed on to her daughter, Pati’s mother Susana, who learned a profound truth in the kitchen. Pati writes on her blog, “Having survived years of war, turbulence and the loss of most of her family, taught my mom a serious lesson: You can survive most hardships in life if you know how to cook, she had said, and mostly, if you know how to cook chicken from scratch.” Susana learned not only how to cook chicken numerous ways, but how to slaughter, pluck, and clean the bird.
A generation later, Pati no longer needs to pluck feathers from the chickens she cooks, but the legacy of cooking chicken in her family has left a mark.