Read more about Nir Mesika in “An Egyptian Hannukah Tradition Lives on in NYC” and try his recipe for zalabia (doughnuts) with honey and orange blossom syrup.
Nir Mesika, chef-owner of the restaurant Timna in New York City, grew up in a beach town near Haifa called Kiryat Motzkin, right on the Mediterranean coast. The son of a Moroccan mother and an Egyptian father, Nir grew up with rich culinary influences, even though they may at first glance seem at odds with one another. His mother, Yafa, was born in Casablanca to a religious Jewish family, while his father, Jackie Mesika, was the son of a cosmopolitan Egyptian couple from Cairo that loved seafood and didn’t have much regard for kosher laws (the first time Nir tasted lobster was at his Nonna Ruby’s house).
Like many Israeli kids that grew up by the sea, Nir would spend his spare time surfing. But before Nir would embark on a day at the beach, he’d sit down with his family to a big lunch that his mother would make every Saturday. The crowded table always included some form of okra, a common Egyptian ingredient that was a staple in the Masika household. Nir was especially fond of okra in the leftovers of a rich Sabbath stew made with short ribs and served with rice, which his mom had cooked for dinner the night before. Yafa learned the beef and okra stew from her mother-in-law, and continued on the tradition in her family. It may seem counterintuitive to eat stew when it’s warm enough to surf, but Nir recalls it being an excellent source of energy for a day spent in the sun.