Shared by Stella Hanan Cohen
For His Bar Mitzvah, a Grandson Is Learning His Ancestors’ Recipes From Spain and Beyond
Family Journey
During the COVID-19 pandemic, cookbook author Stella Hanan Cohen hasn’t been able to travel the nearly 8,000 miles between her home in Zimbabwe and her grandchildren in the U.S. But, recipes have offered a connection, particularly for her bar mitzvah-aged grandson Nico. One day, without giving many details, he asked his mother to purchase the ingredients for his grandmother’s stuffed grape leaves and made them entirely on his own. “He’s got this yearning,” says Stella, for his family’s recipes and history.
The grape leaves, like all the recipes in Stella’s book “Stella's Sephardic Table,” reveal a story about the Jewish cooks of Rhodes island, in present day Greece. During the Spanish Inquisition, Stella’s ancestors and their community fled across the Mediterranean and built a new home here where they kept traditions and customs from Spain alive.
Many of the community’s recipes like those for orange sponge cake called pan d’Espanya, marzipan, and meatballs simmered in tomato sauce were left nearly unchanged for centuries. But with their move, Rhodeslis cooks also adopted new culinary methods and recipes. Savory pastries called bourekas that were popular in the Ottoman kitchen became part of their repertoire and stuffed grape leaves, beloved in the eastern Mediterranean, became a signature dish of the community.
On Rhodes island “we inherited the gamut of stuffed vegetables from the Ottoman Empire,” she adds. Among them were stuffed vine leaves, Swiss chard, and cabbage. In Rhodes, courtyards in the Jewish quarter were home to grapevines with tender leaves that cooks would pick, fill with meat and rice, and simmer with cannellini beans and lemon in a dish called yaprakes de oja de parra kon avas.
It’s a dish she was raised on in Zimbabwe, where her family and part of the Rhodes community moved in the 1930s. When the leaves were in season in springtime, her mother would pick fresh ones in their backyard to make the recipe. And, she would blanch and freeze extra leaves so the family could serve them during the rest of the year. It’s a dish Stella’s made for her children and grandchildren when they would visit. “We form an assembly line. So, one does the rolling, one does the filling, one puts it in the pot,” she says. It brings together the entire family in the kitchen and now, the recipe links them even though they are far apart.
Nico has since made numerous dishes from his grandmother’s cookbook including meatballs, marzipan, and savory pastries called pastelikos. He told Stella:
“For my bar mitzvah, I want to go through the recipes in your book... and try and get a feeling of what our ancestors did”
Explore more of Stella Hanan Cohen’s story and family recipes from Spain and Rhodes island here.