With all due respect to matzo ball soup, borscht is my Ashkenazi comfort soup of choice. I’m not talking about the chilled version, though that too hits the spot on a shvitzy day. I’m talking about steaming hot, fragrant, ruby-colored borscht that comes brimming with tender cabbage, carrots, and beets, and topped with a downy cap of sour cream. That’s the stuff my Jewish food dreams are made of.
It makes sense, of course. My mother's family's roots are Russian and Lithuanian - places where a taste for borscht runs in the veins. I ate the soup occasionally as a kid, but really fell in love with it after moving to New York in my early 20s. There, at the counter of B&H Dairy, an ancient kosher/vegetarian restaurant in the East Village, I tried the most garlicky, deeply savory bowl of borscht imaginable - and never looked back. When my husband and I were first dating, we would often stop at B&H after a night out for a borscht fix. He taught me the trick of ordering a matzo ball in your borscht. It seemed blasphemous at first, but it's actually genius: the soup's flavor soaks into the matzo ball, staining it a gorgeous shade of red. After that, I knew he was a keeper.
As a food writer who focuses primarily on Jewish cuisine, I constantly think about ways to take old world flavors and bring them into a contemporary context. While working on my forthcoming cookbook, the Little Book of Jewish Appetizers (which comes out in August), I decided to transform the building block flavors of the soup I love so much into something new. The result: borscht crostini.